Caring for bushes and shrubs begins with a good knowledge of
plants. Only a careful selection of plant type that is suitable
to its habitat enables us to keep plant care to a minimum.
The objective of soil care is to retain and promote the soil
structure. The soil must be regularly loosened so that aeration
of the upper soil layers is guaranteed. This also prevents standing
water or moisture retention from occurring. New organic matter
should be introduced into the soil annually, preferably in the
form of compost. These measures promote soil fauna, which is very
important for the soil. Regular processing of the upper soil layer
also impedes the growth of weeds.
Because the annual supply of organic matter is lacking in most
gardens, one has to introduce the missing nutrients by means of
fertilizer. We have the following options for supplying the plants
with the missing nutrients:
Fast-acting mineral or organic fertilizers that only work
for a limited time period. The fast-acting fertilizers are administered
in the spring in order to support the plants during new sprouting.
Long-lasting mineral or organic fertilizers are administered
to plants so that they are supplied with sufficient nutrients
throughout the entire year. Fertilizers are also administered
in the spring because they need a certain amount of time until
they take effect.
In the first few weeks after being planted, the plants should
have enough water available to them. This is because their root
systems are still limited to root balls and their immediate
environment.
You should water deciduous groves in the first two years
after planting if conditions have been dry.
Evergreen deciduous groves should be watered if it has been
a dry fall.
Evergreen bushes should also be watered between two periods
of frost, because they need water even during winter months.
Covering the soil prevents excessive water evaporation. It also
protects the upper soil layer from erosion.
The Advantages:
Less need for watering.
Soil fauna is promoted through decomposition.
Weed growth is suppressed.
The soil is protected from drying out and silting up.
The Disadvantages:
The rotting process of the wood products deprives the soil
of nitrogen, which the plants then lack later on if fertilizer
is not administered.
Many smaller shrubs have difficulty penetrating the mulch
layer (bark mulch) with their roots, which is why they do not
cover the plant area very well.
Pruning bushes promotes their development and helps them retain
their natural shape. Pruning should also keep bushes healthy and,
when necessary, rejuvenate and revive them.
The following basic principles must be heeded when pruning:
Prune as much as necessary but as little as possible.
When pruning, ensure that the smallest possible cut surface
is created.
In principle, bushes can be pruned almost all year round.
The only times bushes should not be pruned is during the short
time when they are sprouting and during defoliation.
This type of pruning creates a strong, healthy, and consistent
branch framework. In this type of pruning, branches are cut off
that are rubbing against each other or that are growing in the
shrub interior. Diseased, dead, and weak branches are also removed.
With time, it can become necessary to completely remove an old
branch. For solitary bushes, you can typically not remove old
branches.
Promotional pruning should promote the bushes’ ability
to bloom. Bushes that bloom on perennial wood (Lavandula [lavender],
Caryopteris [bluebeard], Buddleja [butterfly bush], etc,) are
cut back quite a bit in March. Individual bushes are pruned after
they bloom in order to promote a second bloom or to benefit bud
development (hibiscus, weigela, forsythia).
Hedges comprised of deciduous woods (e.g., ironwood) are pruned
once per year in August. Evergreen and coniferous bushes are pruned
in August. Box hedges and Taxus should be pruned twice per year,
once at the end of June, and for the second time at the end of
October.
For bushes in snowy areas, it is advisable to tie them together
due to the snow pressure. Bushes that are sensitive to frost can
be protected from the cold with jute material or other products.
The objective of soil care is to retain and promote the soil
structure. The soil must be regularly loosened so that aeration
of the upper soil layers is guaranteed. This also prevents standing
water or moisture retention from occurring. New organic matter
should be introduced into the soil annually, preferably in the
form of compost. These measures promote soil fauna, which is very
important for the soil. Regular processing of the upper soil layer
also impedes the growth of weeds.
Because the annual supply of organic matter is lacking in most
gardens, the missing nutrients have to be introduced by means
of fertilizer. We have the following options for supplying the
plants with the missing nutrients:
o Fast-acting mineral or organic fertilizers that only work for
a limited time period. The fast-acting fertilizers are administered
in the spring in order to support the plants during new sprouting.
o Long-lasting mineral or organic fertilizers are administered
to plants so that they are supplied with sufficient nutrients
throughout the entire year. Fertilizers are also administered
in the spring because they need a certain amount of time until
they take effect. Fast-acting fertilizers bridge the time gap
until the long-term fertilizers take effect.
In the first few weeks after being planted, the plants should
have enough water available to them. Because their root systems
are still limited to root balls and their immediate environment.
You should water shrubs in the first two years after planting
if conditions have been dry.
Highly seed-bearing shrubs should be cut back before seeds germinate.
Otherwise, the numerous emerging seedlings must be removed by
hand, e.g., Aruncus dioicus (goat’s beard), Astrantia major
(Hadspen blood), Campanula latifolia (brantwood).
Restoration Pruning
Some types reward pruning after blooming with a second blooming
period. The pruning prevents seed maturation and invests the growth
energy into the second bloom, e.g., Alchemilla mollis (lady’s
mantle) Centaurea montana (mountain bluet), Astrantia major (Hadspen
blood).
Lengthening of the Blooming Period
Through continuous removal of wilting blooms, an extremely long
blooming period can be achieved, e.g., Hemerocallis (daylily),
Buphthalmum salicifolium (woodland oxeye).
Reduction Pruning
The vitality of some shrubs is so great that they displace neighboring
shrubs. These shrubs must be continuously arrested in their growth
through pruning and excavation, e.g., Symphytum (comfrey), Lamiastrum
(Herman’s pride), Buglossoides (corn gromwell).
Maintenance Pruning
For some shrubs, e.g., Thymus x citriodorus (Silver Queen), pruning
is better done in the spring in order to make them more winter-hardy.
With winter-hardy shrubs, maintenance pruning can be done in the
fall. Pruning in spring is also recommended for bushes with attractive
fruits or seeds. These shrubs (all grasses, Dictamnus [burning
bush], Anaphalis [pearly everlasting], etc.) prevent a shrub hedge
from looking bald and bleak in the winter
Shrubs at risk from frost can best be protected from the cold
and wet with individual winter protection material. Fir branches,
jute materials, or reed mats are suitable for winter protection.
Mulch layers with foliage or compost are a good insulator for
branches and roots.
